What to Plant in February in Pennsylvania

February is the month Pennsylvania gardeners shift from planning to doing. Nothing goes in the ground yet — except in the warmest corners of zone 7a — but what you start under lights in February determines how your entire warm-season garden performs come May and June. Peppers especially need every one of these February weeks; start them late and you’ll be chasing the season all summer.

This guide covers what to start indoors in February by zone, what to order and prep before March arrives, and the few outdoor tasks that are actually worth doing in a Pennsylvania February.

📅 Pennsylvania Gardening Year — You Are Here: February

JanOrder Seeds / Plan
FebStart Peppers / Onions
MarStart Tomatoes / Prep Beds
AprDirect Sow Cool-Season
MayTransplant Warm-Season
JunFull Garden Growing
JulPeak Harvest
AugHarvest / Fall Starts
SepFall Direct Sow
OctFinal Harvest / Cleanup
NovAmend Beds / Rest
DecPlan / Order
You Are Here Dormant / Plan Prep Plant Active Growth Harvest

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What February Means for Pennsylvania Gardeners

Outside, Pennsylvania in February ranges from reliably frozen in the northern tier (zones 5a–5b) to occasionally thawing in the Philadelphia region (zone 7a). Either way, the ground is not workable and nothing goes in the soil outdoors for at least 6–10 more weeks in most of the state. But indoors, February is the single most important seed-starting month of the year for warm-season crops.

The logic is simple: peppers, onions, leeks, celery, and slow-germinating herbs like rosemary need 10–12 weeks of indoor growing time before they’re ready to transplant after your last frost. Count 10 weeks back from a typical late-April last frost date (central PA, zone 6a) and you land squarely in mid-February. Start late and you’re transplanting underdeveloped seedlings — start on time in February and you’re putting out stocky, root-bound plants ready to hit the ground running.

February is also your last reliable window to order bare-root plants and seed potatoes before spring inventory sells out. Bare-root strawberries and asparagus crowns ship in March and April — ordering in February ensures you get the varieties you want.

📅

Free PA Planting Calendar

Zone-specific · 4 pages · Instant download

Get the exact indoor start dates for your Pennsylvania zone — peppers, onions, tomatoes, herbs, and 50+ more crops mapped to your local last frost date. No guesswork.

  • Wall chart with all key dates
  • Seed-start schedule (50+ crops)
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  • Soil temp cheat sheet

What to Start Indoors in February

February indoor starts are mostly long-season crops that need a head start to reach full production potential within Pennsylvania’s warm season. Here’s what belongs under your lights in February:

Peppers — Start Now, All Zones

Peppers are the most time-sensitive February start in Pennsylvania. They’re slow germinators (10–21 days even with heat), slow growers, and need a minimum of 10–12 weeks indoors before they’re ready to transplant. Start too late and you get small plants with limited fruit set before fall cold shuts them down. According to Penn State Extension’s pepper production guide, peppers require soil temperatures of 75–85°F for optimal germination — a heat mat under your seed trays is not optional for February starts in a cool house.

Sow pepper seeds 10–12 weeks before your expected last frost. In central PA (zone 6a, last frost ~April 25), that puts your start date at February 1–15. In zone 7a (Philadelphia, last frost ~April 5), aim for the first week of February. In zone 5a (northern PA, last frost ~May 15), you can start mid-February and still hit 12 weeks.

🌱 Seedling Heat Mat

Pepper seeds need warm soil to germinate reliably — a heat mat warms seed trays 10–20°F above room temperature for faster, more even sprouting. A heat mat to warm your seed trays →

Onions and Leeks — Start Now, All Zones

Onions and leeks are among the slowest crops from seed to transplant — they need 10–12 weeks indoors to reach transplant size, and leeks can take even longer. Starting them in February gives Pennsylvania gardeners a realistic shot at bulb onions that actually size up before summer heat triggers early maturation. Onions started in March are still viable but will be smaller at transplant, which typically means smaller bulbs at harvest.

Sow onion seeds thickly in a flat, thin to 1 inch apart, and trim tops to 3–4 inches every few weeks to encourage thicker stems. Long-day varieties — the standard for Pennsylvania — need to be started from seed rather than bought as transplant bundles if you want specific varieties like Walla Walla, Ailsa Craig, or Copra.

Celery and Celeriac — Start Now, All Zones

Celery is one of the most demanding crops to start from seed — it germinates slowly at cool temperatures and needs 10–12 weeks of growing time before it’s anywhere near transplant size. Sow seeds on the surface (they need light to germinate), keep the soil consistently moist, and expect germination to take 2–3 weeks. Celeriac follows the same schedule and is generally more forgiving once established.

Slow Herbs from Seed — Start Now

Rosemary, lavender, and thyme started from seed are notoriously slow. Rosemary in particular can take 3–4 weeks to germinate and another 8–10 weeks to reach transplant size. February is not too early for these — it’s exactly right. Germination rates are lower than most vegetables, so sow more seeds than you think you need. These herbs are perennial in most of Pennsylvania (rosemary is marginal in zones 5a–6a) and worth the investment of a long indoor start.

Zone 7a Only: Tomatoes (Late February)

In the Philadelphia region (zone 7a, last frost around April 5), very late February is technically correct for starting tomatoes — exactly 8 weeks out. However, most zone 7a gardeners are better served waiting until the first week of March to avoid oversized transplants. If you start February 15 and your last frost is April 5, you have 49 days — tomatoes can get too leggy in that window if light isn’t perfect. Start zone 7a tomatoes the last week of February at the very earliest.

February Tasks by Zone

🌡️ What to Do in February — By PA Zone

Zone 5a — Northern Tier
Start indoors: Peppers (mid-Feb), onions, leeks, celery, slow herbs
Last frost: ~May 15
Outdoor: Nothing yet — soil frozen
Order: Bare-root plants, seed potatoes
Zone 5b — North-Central PA
Start indoors: Peppers (mid-Feb), onions, leeks, celery, slow herbs
Last frost: ~May 10
Outdoor: Nothing yet
Order: Bare-root strawberries, asparagus crowns
Zone 6a — Central PA
Start indoors: Peppers (early Feb), onions, leeks, celery, slow herbs
Last frost: ~Apr 25
Outdoor: Nothing yet; clean up dead growth if dry
Order: Finalize seed orders now
Zone 6b — Western/South-Central PA
Start indoors: Peppers (early Feb), onions, leeks, celery, slow herbs
Last frost: ~Apr 15
Outdoor: Prune fruit trees on mild days
Order: Bare-root fruit trees if not already done
Zone 7a — Philadelphia Region
Start indoors: Peppers (first week Feb), onions, leeks, celery, herbs; tomatoes (last week Feb)
Last frost: ~Apr 5
Outdoor: Prune dormant fruit trees; spinach/lettuce under cold frame possible late month

Indoor Seed-Starting Timing Table for Pennsylvania

Use your zone’s last frost date and count backward by the weeks listed to find your February (and early March) start dates. These timings align with what the Old Farmer’s Almanac recommends for pepper starting — adjusted for Pennsylvania’s specific zone range. Find your exact frost dates using the Pennsylvania frost dates by region guide.

Crop Weeks Before Last Frost Zone 5a (LF May 15) Zone 6a (LF Apr 25) Zone 7a (LF Apr 5)
Peppers 10–12 weeks Feb 19 – Mar 5 Feb 1–15 Jan 15 – Feb 1
Onions / Leeks 10–12 weeks Feb 19 – Mar 5 Feb 1–15 Jan 15 – Feb 1
Celery / Celeriac 10–12 weeks Feb 19 – Mar 5 Feb 1–15 Jan 15 – Feb 1
Rosemary (from seed) 10–14 weeks Feb 5–19 Jan 20 – Feb 3 Jan 1–15
Lavender / Thyme (from seed) 10–12 weeks Feb 19 – Mar 5 Feb 1–15 Jan 15 – Feb 1
Tomatoes 6–8 weeks Mar 19 – Apr 2 Mar 1–15 Feb 9–23
Eggplant 8–10 weeks Mar 5–19 Feb 15 – Mar 1 Jan 25 – Feb 8
Basil 4–6 weeks Apr 3–17 Mar 14–28 Feb 22 – Mar 8
📌
Zone 6a gardeners: February 1–15 is your pepper window

Central Pennsylvania has the most unforgiving timing for peppers — the growing season is long enough to ripen them but short enough that late starts show up in yield. If your last frost is April 20–30, aim to have pepper seeds in trays by February 10 at the latest. Eggplant follows the same schedule and is even slower — start it the same day as your peppers.

Your February Seed-Starting Setup

February starts live or die based on two things: heat and light. Pennsylvania homes in February average 65–68°F — not warm enough for reliable pepper germination, which wants soil at 75–85°F. Once seeds sprout, they need 14–16 hours of direct light per day; a south-facing window in February delivers maybe 5–6 hours of weak light at best. Most PA gardeners need supplemental light to avoid leggy seedlings that fall over before they make it to the garden.

A dedicated grow light setup doesn’t need to be expensive. Keep lights 2–4 inches above seedling tops and raise the fixture as plants grow. A simple timer set to 16 hours on / 8 hours off removes one variable entirely. For soil temperature, an inexpensive soil thermometer lets you verify your heat mat is actually maintaining the 75–80°F sweet spot instead of guessing.

Cornell Cooperative Extension’s home gardening guide recommends using a sterile seed-starting mix rather than potting soil for germination — it’s finer-textured, drains better, and contains no weed seeds or pathogens that can wipe out a flat of seedlings before they’ve developed their first true leaves.

What NOT to Start in February

The most common February mistake is starting tomatoes too early. Eight weeks before transplant is the maximum — six weeks is actually better for most Pennsylvania gardeners, producing stockier, more transplant-ready plants. In zones 5a–6b, tomatoes started in February will be overgrown, root-bound, and struggling by late April when it’s still too cold to go outside. Wait until mid-to-late March for tomatoes in most of PA.

Similarly, hold off on cucumbers, squash, zucchini, melons, and beans entirely — these fast growers need only 3–4 weeks indoors (cucumbers, squash) or go directly in the ground (beans). Starting them in February produces plants that are well past their prime by the time soil is warm enough to accept them. The what to plant in March in Pennsylvania guide covers what enters the rotation next month — tomatoes, brassicas, and more cool-season direct sowing.

⚠️
Don’t start tomatoes in February (zones 5a–6b)

Eight weeks before last frost is the outer limit for tomatoes, and six is generally better. A zone 6a gardener with a May 1 last frost should start tomatoes no earlier than March 6. February tomato starts in most of PA produce overgrown plants that need stressful hardening and often perform worse than correctly-timed March starts.

Outdoor February Tasks Worth Doing

Most Pennsylvania gardeners have limited outdoor options in February, but a few tasks are genuinely worth doing on mild days when the ground isn’t frozen solid or covered in snow.

Pruning dormant fruit trees and shrubs is the most valuable February outdoor task, especially in zones 6b–7a where late February temperatures can reach the 40s and 50s. Dormant pruning before bud swell is ideal for apples, pears, and stone fruits — the cuts heal cleanly and disease pressure is at its lowest. Zones 5a–6a gardeners may need to wait until early to mid-March when temperatures stabilize.

Soil and bed assessment is another useful February activity. Walk your raised beds and garden areas on a dry day to note what needs amendment, where drainage problems appeared last year, and where you want to add new beds. Reading your Pennsylvania hardiness zone carefully and matching it to your new season’s crop list while you still have time to order is one of the highest-value hours you’ll spend in February. If you’re planning new raised beds or amending existing ones this spring, the Pennsylvania soil guide covers what to add and when for different soil types across the state.

In zone 7a, late February can allow spinach, kale, or lettuce seeds under a cold frame — soil temperatures may reach 40°F, enough for cold-tolerant crops to germinate slowly. This is an optional bonus, not a standard task, and depends heavily on whether your February is running warm or cold. Check the December and January planting guide for the cold-frame techniques that also apply in late February zone 7a conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I start tomatoes in February in Pennsylvania?

Only in zone 7a (Philadelphia area), and only in the last week of February. Everywhere else in Pennsylvania, February is too early for tomatoes. Tomatoes need 6–8 weeks indoors — no more. In zone 6a (central PA, last frost April 25), that puts your tomato start date at late February to mid-March at the earliest. Starting in February in zones 5–6 produces tall, leggy, root-bound plants that are difficult to harden off and often underperform properly-timed March starts.

Why do peppers need to be started so early in Pennsylvania?

Peppers are both slow to germinate (10–21 days) and slow growers in their early weeks. They need a full 10–12 weeks of indoor growing time to develop a robust root system and enough stem thickness to handle transplanting. Pennsylvania’s relatively short warm season means peppers started in March often don’t reach full fruit production before fall cold arrives — a February start gives them the head start they need to produce heavily through July and August.

Do I need a heat mat for February seed starting in Pennsylvania?

For peppers, yes — a heat mat is strongly recommended, not optional. Pepper seeds germinate best at 75–85°F soil temperature, and most Pennsylvania homes in February run 65–68°F. Without bottom heat, germination takes 3–4 weeks and is often spotty. A heat mat under the seed tray typically cuts germination time to 7–14 days and improves germination rates significantly. Onions and leeks don’t require bottom heat and germinate well at room temperature.

Can I direct sow anything outdoors in Pennsylvania in February?

In most of Pennsylvania, no. The ground is frozen or saturated and soil temperatures are far too low for germination. The exception is zone 7a (Philadelphia area) with a cold frame — late February can occasionally see soil temps reach 40°F under glass or plastic, enough for spinach and kale to germinate slowly. Without cold frame protection, wait until March or April for any outdoor direct sowing. See the March planting guide for when outdoor direct sowing becomes viable statewide.

What’s the best light setup for February seed starting indoors?

Pennsylvania in February gets roughly 10 hours of daylight, but window light in late winter is low-angle and weak — rarely sufficient for seedlings that need 14–16 hours of direct light to avoid getting leggy. A shop light with one warm and one cool fluorescent tube, or an LED grow light positioned 2–4 inches above seedling tops, solves this reliably. Keep lights on a timer for consistency. Raise the light fixture weekly as plants grow to maintain the 2–4 inch gap.

What should I be ordering in February for spring planting?

February is the last reliable window to order several items before spring stock sells out. Priority orders include: bare-root strawberry plants (ship March–April, popular varieties go fast), asparagus crowns (ship in spring, 2-year crowns especially), seed potatoes (certified disease-free stock depletes by late March), and any bare-root fruit trees or berry bushes you’re adding this year. If your seed order isn’t finalized, February is your last comfortable window before early-spring varieties start going out of stock.

Related Guides

Keep your planting season moving with these Pennsylvania gardening guides: