Beets reward attentive growers. Get the soil loose, manage moisture consistently, thin those seed clusters properly, and Pennsylvania’s cool springs and crisp falls hand you two full harvests per year — roots and greens both. Skip any one of those steps and you get rough, woody, or nonexistent roots despite perfectly healthy-looking tops. This guide covers the mechanics of growing beets in PA from seed prep through root storage, with the technique details most articles gloss over.
Pennsylvania’s zones 5a through 7a actually give beets near-ideal conditions twice a year. Spring crops mature in the cool stretch before summer heat arrives; fall crops are started in the August warmth and mature into the cool-down, developing sweetness as temperatures drop. The challenge is working with PA’s notoriously heavy soils — beets need friable, stone-free growing medium to size up round and smooth, and addressing that before you sow is the most important prep you can do.
Whether you’re growing in amended garden beds, dedicated raised beds, or large containers, the step-by-step process is the same. Prepare the ground, understand the seed cluster behavior, thin at the right time, keep moisture consistent, and harvest in two stages — greens first, roots later. Follow these steps and you’ll grow better beets than most PA gardeners manage on their first several attempts.
📋 In This Guide
PA Beet Growing Timeline
Typical activity for zones 6a/6b (central PA). See zone selector below for your specific windows.
⚡ Quick Reference — Growing Beets in PA
Step 1: Choose the Right Beet Variety for Your Goal
Variety selection shapes your entire season. PA growers have different priorities — some want the largest, sweetest storage roots; others want a steady supply of greens; others want visual interest at the table. Choosing before you sow prevents disappointment at harvest.
| Variety | Days to Maturity | Root Size | Greens Quality | Best For | PA Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Detroit Dark Red | 58–60 days | 3–4 inches | Good | All-purpose; most reliable | Bolt-resistant; excellent for spring and fall |
| Early Wonder | 48–55 days | 3 inches | Excellent | Dual harvest (greens + roots) | Fastest maturing; ideal for short spring windows in zones 5a/5b |
| Chioggia | 54–60 days | 3–4 inches | Good | Visual interest; mild flavor | Concentric pink-and-white rings fade when cooked; serve raw or roasted |
| Golden Beet | 55–65 days | 3 inches | Good | Non-staining; mild, sweet | Slower to germinate; slightly less vigorous than Detroit Dark Red |
| Cylindra | 58–68 days | 6–8 inches long | Fair | High-yield slicing; pickling | Needs 12 inches soil depth; excels in raised beds and deep containers |
| Bull’s Blood | 50–60 days | Small–medium | Outstanding | Microgreens; ornamental tops | Grown primarily for deep red foliage; good fall crop for visual contrast |
| Touchstone Gold | 55 days | 3 inches | Good | Non-staining; sweeter than golden | Excellent flavor; slightly earlier than standard Golden Beet selections |
Organic Beet Seeds Variety Pack — Trial Multiple Types Across PA Seasons
If you’re deciding which beet varieties suit your PA zone and garden style, an organic beet seeds variety pack that includes Detroit Dark Red, Touchstone Gold, Crosby Egyptian, and more lets you run a proper side-by-side trial without committing to a full packet of any single variety. Non-GMO, certified organic — six individual packs covering the main flavor and color profiles grown in Pennsylvania.
Detroit Dark Red is the most forgiving beet in Pennsylvania — bolt-resistant, widely adapted across zones 5a through 7a, productive in both spring and fall, and available everywhere. Once you have a successful season under your belt, branch out into Chioggia, Golden, or Cylindra to explore different flavors and textures.
Step 2: Prepare Your Soil Before You Sow
Beet roots grow downward. If they hit compaction, rocks, or heavy clay, they fork, twist, or stay small regardless of how well you manage everything above ground. Soil preparation is the single most important step in growing quality beet roots in Pennsylvania, where clay subsoils are widespread.
Test Your Soil pH
Beets need a pH of 6.2 to 7.0. Pennsylvania soils often read 5.5 to 6.0 without amendment, especially in the northern and mountain regions. A soil test through Penn State Extension’s soil testing service costs a modest fee and returns specific lime recommendations for your soil. Lime takes 2–3 months to fully adjust pH, so testing and amending in fall for spring planting — or in early spring for fall planting — gives the best results.
Loosen the Bed 10–12 Inches Deep
Use a digging fork (not a tiller, which can create hardpan at tine depth) to loosen the soil 10–12 inches down. Remove all rocks and debris down to 8 inches — any obstruction at root depth will cause forking or gnarled roots. For standard round varieties like Detroit Dark Red and Chioggia, 10 inches of loose soil is sufficient. Cylindra beets need at least 12 inches.
Amend for Drainage and Nutrition
Incorporate 2–3 inches of compost into the top 8 inches of soil. For heavy PA clay beds, also mix in perlite or coarse sand (at least 20% by volume) to open up drainage. Beets do not need high nitrogen — excess nitrogen produces magnificent tops but stubby, slow-maturing roots. If your soil is already fertile from a heavy compost application, do not add extra nitrogen fertilizer at planting.
Check for Boron Deficiency
Boron deficiency causes a specific beet failure: the center of the root develops dark, corky, hollow areas called “internal black spot” or “heart rot.” It’s common in leached PA soils and soils with high pH. If your soil test reveals low boron, apply 1 tablespoon of borax dissolved in a gallon of water per 100 square feet of bed — apply once per season, as boron is toxic to plants at high concentrations. Do not apply boron unless your soil test indicates deficiency.
Beets at a pH below 6.0 show yellowing inner leaves (chlorosis), poor germination, and stunted roots even in otherwise good soil. If you’ve tried beets before and had disappointing results without knowing why, check pH first. In PA’s naturally acidic soils, liming is often the highest-leverage fix available.
Step 3: Sow Beet Seeds — Pre-Soaking and Technique
Beet “seeds” are actually corky seed clusters containing 2–6 seeds each. Each cluster will produce multiple seedlings from a single planted unit — which means beets almost always come up in clumps, and thinning is not optional. Understanding this structure changes how you handle sowing.
Pre-Soaking: Worth the Extra Step
Soaking beet seed clusters in room-temperature water for 1–2 hours before sowing softens the corky outer coating and breaks mild germination inhibitors. Studies and practical experience consistently show 2–4 days faster germination and more even emergence with pre-soaked seed. Place clusters in a small bowl of water, soak for 1–2 hours (not longer — excess soaking can deprive seeds of oxygen), drain, and sow immediately while still moist.
For improved germination, some growers rub clusters gently between thumb and forefinger to break them apart into individual seeds. This is not required but reduces the number of seedlings per sowing point and makes thinning slightly easier. If you do separate clusters, sow single seeds 1 inch apart; if sowing whole clusters, space them 2 inches apart and plan to thin to 3–4 inches.
Sowing Depth and Spacing
Plant beet seed clusters ½ inch deep. Shallower sowing (¼ inch) works in cool, moist spring soil but can dry out between waterings. Deeper than ¾ inch delays emergence and reduces germination rate. Press the soil gently over each cluster to ensure good seed-to-soil contact without compacting the bed. Water in lightly after sowing — enough to moisten the soil to 2 inches deep without waterlogging.
For rows, space rows 12–18 inches apart to allow for leaf spread and air circulation. For intensive beds or raised beds, broadcast-sow in 4-inch wide bands or use a grid pattern with clusters every 2 inches, then thin to 3–4 inches after seedlings establish. Succession sow every 2–3 weeks from your first spring sowing date through 6 weeks before expected daytime highs above 80°F to extend your spring harvest.
For fall crops, count backward from your average first frost date. Add the variety’s days-to-maturity, plus 2 weeks for slowing growth rates in cooler fall temperatures, plus 7 days for germination. That total (typically 70–85 days before first frost) is your fall sowing target. In zones 6a/6b (central PA), that typically falls between August 1 and August 20. Zones 5a/5b need to sow fall crops by late July.
Step 4: Thin Beet Clusters — The Step Most Growers Skip
Thinning is the most skipped and most consequential step in beet growing. Beet seed clusters reliably produce 2–4 seedlings per sowing point. Without thinning, those seedlings compete for the same space, and the result is a cluster of several small, misshapen roots pressed against each other — or more commonly, several plants with healthy tops and no usable roots at all.
When to Thin
Thin in two stages. The first thinning happens when seedlings reach 2 inches tall — remove excess seedlings so that remaining plants are 1–1½ inches apart. This prevents the worst early crowding while leaving a small buffer in case of loss. The second thinning happens when plants reach 4–5 inches tall — thin to the final spacing of 3–4 inches. At this stage, thinned plants are large enough to harvest as baby greens, which are excellent in salads.
Thinning Technique
Use scissors to snip seedlings at soil level rather than pulling them. Pulling disturbs the root systems of neighboring plants, which in beets — where the root is the entire point — can set back development significantly. Snip flush to the soil, remove the cuttings (they make excellent microgreens), and do not disturb the remaining seedlings. Thinning in the early morning when soil is cool and moist reduces transplant shock to the remaining plants.
Properly thinned beets in good soil reach 3–4 inches in diameter and develop smooth, round shoulders above the soil line — the visual indicator that root development is happening correctly. Crowded beets stay small, fork, or produce elongated, irregular shapes. The 5 minutes spent thinning per 10-foot row pays back in an entirely different harvest.
Step 5: Water and Feed Through the Season
Watering: Consistency Over Quantity
Beets need approximately 1 inch of water per week throughout the growing season. The specific amount matters less than the consistency — wet/dry cycles during root development directly cause zoning (visible concentric rings when roots are sliced) and rough skin texture. Both are quality problems caused entirely by irregular moisture, not disease or genetics.
Water deeply and infrequently rather than shallowly and often. Each watering should moisten the soil to 8–10 inches — the full root zone. Then allow the top 1–2 inches to dry before watering again. In PA’s spring and fall, rainfall often provides adequate moisture for several days at a time; check soil moisture at 2-inch depth before watering to avoid overwatering, which causes crown rot and oxygen deprivation in roots.
A drip irrigation kit threaded through a beet bed makes consistent moisture management significantly easier — drip delivers water directly to the root zone without wetting foliage (which reduces fungal disease risk) and can be put on a timer to maintain even soil moisture during hot or dry spells. Particularly useful for the August-sown fall crop, which establishes during PA’s hottest and driest stretch of late summer.
Apply 2 inches of straw or shredded leaf mulch between beet rows after seedlings are 3 inches tall. Mulch moderates soil temperature, slows evaporation, and reduces the soil-moisture swings that cause zoning. Keep mulch 1 inch away from plant crowns to prevent crown rot. In PA’s August heat, mulching the fall-sown crop is particularly important during the first 3–4 weeks of establishment.
Feeding Beets Through the Season
Beets are moderate feeders. They need adequate phosphorus and potassium for root development, moderate nitrogen for top growth, and consistent micronutrient availability — particularly boron (discussed in soil prep) and manganese.
If you incorporated 2–3 inches of compost at bed prep, beets in good garden soil often need no additional fertilizer. For beds that are lower in organic matter, apply a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) at the rate specified on the package at planting, and a second application of a low-nitrogen fertilizer (5-10-10 or tomato formula) when roots begin to swell — visible as slight shoulder expansion above the soil line. Avoid high-nitrogen applications once roots begin developing; this promotes lush tops at the expense of root growth.
Free PA Planting Calendar
Zone-specific · 4 pages · Instant download
Get the exact dates for your Pennsylvania zone — when to start seeds indoors, direct sow, transplant, and harvest. Built around your local frost window, not a generic national average.
- Wall chart with all key dates
- Seed-start schedule (50+ crops)
- First & last frost reference
- Soil temp cheat sheet
Step 6: Harvest Beet Greens Without Killing the Plant
Beet greens are among the most nutritious and underused crops from a home garden — similar to Swiss chard in texture and flavor, with a mild earthiness and substantial body. Every beet plant you grow can provide two or three greens harvests before you pull the root, extending your return from the same space.
The One-Third Rule
Never remove more than one-third of a plant’s total leaf area at once. The plant uses its leaves to photosynthesize the sugars that sweeten and size the root — stripping too many leaves too early stunts root development. Remove outer, mature leaves (dark green, 6–8 inches long) and leave the inner leaves and new growth intact. The inner “crown” — the central cluster of new leaves — must never be removed while the root is still developing.
Which Varieties Have the Best Greens
Early Wonder and Bull’s Blood are the standout greens varieties. Early Wonder produces large, flavorful leaves quickly and can be harvested almost as a cut-and-come-again crop. Bull’s Blood is grown primarily for its deep red-purple foliage, which is visually dramatic and has excellent flavor. Detroit Dark Red produces functional greens but the tops are slightly more textured than Early Wonder’s. Golden Beet and Chioggia greens are mild and usable but are not standouts for greens quality.
Timing Greens Harvest Relative to Root Harvest
Begin harvesting greens when plants are 5–6 inches tall. Take one or two outer leaves per plant per week. Stop harvesting greens 3 weeks before you plan to pull the root — those final weeks of full leaf area significantly affect final root size and sugar content. Do not harvest greens at all in the last 2 weeks before pulling; the plant needs its full canopy to push final sugars into the root.
Beet greens sauté quickly in olive oil with garlic — 3 minutes over medium-high heat for mature outer leaves, 90 seconds for tender young growth. They work well wilted into pasta, added to grain bowls, or eaten raw in salads when young. The stems (especially from Bull’s Blood and Detroit Dark Red) are edible too — chop and add them to the pan a minute before the leaves since they take slightly longer to cook.
Step 7: Harvest and Store Beet Roots
When to Harvest
Most PA beet varieties are ready for harvest when roots reach 1½ to 3 inches in diameter for standard types, or when shoulders protrude 1 inch above the soil line. Do not wait for roots to exceed 3 inches — older roots become woody, fibrous, and lose their sweetness. The sweet spot for most varieties is 2–2½ inches diameter, typically 55–68 days from sowing depending on the variety and season temperatures.
Check root size by gently brushing soil from around the shoulder — the crown that sits just above the soil surface is a reliable size indicator. If it looks like a proper beet, it is. Don’t wait until the tops show stress; by the time tops yellow or look tired, many roots have already passed peak quality.
Fall Crop Harvest Timing
For PA fall crops, beets improve with light frost exposure. Temperatures in the 28–32°F range convert starches to sugars, producing noticeably sweeter roots. Plan to harvest after 1–2 light frosts but before a sustained hard freeze (temperatures below 28°F for more than a few hours). Roots left in frozen ground suffer cell damage that shortens storage life.
According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac’s beet guide, beet roots can withstand temperatures as low as 29°F in the ground for brief periods, but should be harvested before extended freezes to prevent quality loss. In zone 5a/5b PA regions, this means harvesting in October; zones 6a–7a can often push into mid-to-late November.
Harvest Technique
Use a digging fork rather than pulling by the tops. Insert the fork 4–5 inches away from the crown and lever up, loosening the soil ball before lifting. Pulling tops risks snapping the root free from the taproot in a way that accelerates spoilage. After loosening with the fork, grasp the tops close to the crown and lift with a twisting motion. Brush off loose soil — do not wash roots before storage.
Storage
Remove tops immediately after harvest, leaving ½ inch of stem. Beet tops actively draw moisture from roots in storage, accelerating shriveling. Do not cut into the root — any cut surface bleeds and shortens shelf life. Store roots unwashed in plastic bags or damp sand in a refrigerator or root cellar at 32–40°F with high humidity (90–95%). Properly stored, beets last 2–4 months. Check monthly and remove any soft or rotting roots before they spread.
After harvesting, lay beets in a shaded spot with good airflow for 24–48 hours to allow the skin to tighten and minor surface scratches to dry. This “curing” step reduces rot entry points and noticeably improves storage life. Do not skip it even if you’re eager to get roots into the root cellar or refrigerator.
Step 8: Troubleshoot Common PA Beet Problems
| Problem | Symptom | Most Likely Cause | PA-Specific Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Poor or patchy germination | Few or no seedlings emerge within 14–18 days | Soil too cold (<45°F), soil too dry, or seed planted too deep | Use a soil thermometer to confirm 50°F+ at sowing depth; cover rows with floating row cover to retain warmth in early spring |
| Multiple seedlings from each spot | Clumps of 3–5 seedlings from every sowing point | Normal seed cluster behavior — not a problem, but requires thinning | Snip excess seedlings with scissors at soil level; do not pull. See thinning section above |
| Stunted growth, yellow inner leaves | Plants grow slowly; new leaves yellow despite adequate water | Low soil pH (below 6.0) most likely; nitrogen deficiency possible | Test soil pH. If below 6.2, apply lime. In PA’s acidic soils, pH correction often resolves yellowing completely |
| Tops look great, roots stay small | Lush 12-inch tops, roots 1 inch or less | Overcrowding (not thinned); excess nitrogen; insufficient root-zone depth | Thin to 3–4 inches spacing; avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after seedling stage; check soil depth (>10 inches needed) |
| Forked or misshapen roots | Roots fork into multiple lobes; twisted; gnarled | Rock or hard pan in root zone; root disturbance during thinning | Remove all rocks to 8-inch depth; use scissors (not pulling) when thinning; loosen with fork if compaction suspected |
| Zoning (concentric rings visible) | Light and dark rings when root is sliced; visible in raw root | Irregular watering — wet/dry cycles during root development | Maintain 1 inch/week consistent moisture; mulch to buffer soil moisture swings; drip irrigation helps significantly |
| Rough, corky skin | Beet exterior has rough patches or corky bumps | Boron deficiency; clay soil resistance; alternating wet/dry conditions | Soil test for boron; apply borax solution if deficient (1 tbsp/gallon water per 100 sq ft); improve soil friability with compost |
| Dark center in root (heart rot) | Root interior has black or brown cavities when cut | Boron deficiency — most common in leached PA soils with high pH | Apply boron amendment the following season after soil test confirms deficiency |
| Bolting (flower stalk formation) | Plant sends up a tall central stalk; root becomes woody | Vernalization response — extended cold period followed by warmth | Avoid sowing more than 6 weeks before last frost in zone 5a/5b; choose bolt-resistant varieties (Detroit Dark Red, Early Wonder) |
| Leaf miner tunnels in leaves | Pale, winding tunnels visible through leaf; papery leaf surface | Beet leafminer (Pegomya hyoscyami) — common PA pest | Remove and destroy affected leaves; use floating row cover from sowing to exclude adult flies in spring |
Step 9: Zone-by-Zone Planting Windows for Pennsylvania
Pennsylvania spans from USDA zone 5a in the northern tier and higher elevations down to zone 7a in the southeastern corner. Spring and fall sowing windows differ by 3–5 weeks across this range. Find your zone below for specific sowing dates.
🗺️ Select Your PA Zone
Zone 5a — Northern PA, Potter, McKean, Sullivan, Cameron Counties
Spring sowing: Late April through late May. Last frost typically May 10–20. Sow 4 weeks before last frost; first sowing around April 15–20 with row cover. Final spring sowing by June 1.
Fall sowing: Late July through early August. First frost typically October 1–10. Count back 75 days plus 7 for germination: sow by July 20–August 5.
Recommended varieties: Early Wonder (fastest maturity for short springs), Detroit Dark Red. Avoid slow-maturing varieties like Cylindra for spring crops in zone 5a.
Watch for: Late spring frosts into late May — protect early-sown seedlings with row cover on cold nights. Fall window is tight; do not delay past August 5.
Zone 5b — Northern PA, Tioga, Clinton, Lycoming, Wayne Counties; higher elevations statewide
Spring sowing: Late April through early June. Last frost typically May 5–15. First sowing around April 10–20; final spring sowing by June 1.
Fall sowing: Late July through August 10. First frost typically October 5–15. Sow by August 1–8 for best results.
Recommended varieties: Detroit Dark Red, Early Wonder for spring; Chioggia and Golden for fall if timing allows.
Watch for: May cold snaps — have row cover ready through mid-May. Succession plant spring crops every 2–3 weeks from April 10 to May 15.
Zone 6a — Central PA, Centre, Huntingdon, Blair, Mifflin, Northumberland Counties
Spring sowing: Late March through May. Last frost typically April 25–May 5. First sowing around March 25–April 5 with row cover or cloche protection; final spring sowing May 20.
Fall sowing: August 1 through August 20. First frost typically October 15–25. Sow by August 15 for reliable full-size roots; August 20 for baby beet harvest before hard freeze.
Recommended varieties: All PA varieties perform well. Cylindra and Golden Beet have enough time to mature in both seasons.
Watch for: Summer heat — final spring crops may bolt or become woody if left in ground past mid-July. Harvest spring crop before daytime highs reach 85°F consistently.
Zone 6b — South-central PA, York, Adams, Cumberland, Franklin, Lebanon, Lancaster Counties
Spring sowing: Mid-March through mid-May. Last frost typically April 15–25. First sowing March 15–20; final spring sowing May 15 for June–July harvest.
Fall sowing: August 5 through September 1. First frost typically October 25–November 5. Sow by August 25 for full-size roots; September 1 is pushing timing for most varieties.
Recommended varieties: Full selection — Detroit Dark Red, Chioggia, Cylindra, Golden, Touchstone Gold all succeed. Excellent dual-season zone.
Watch for: Summer gap — harvest spring beets by late June. Zone 6b summers can be hot enough (90°F+) to stress fall-germinating beets sown before August 5.
Zone 7a — Southeastern PA, Philadelphia, Chester, Delaware, Montgomery, Bucks Counties
Spring sowing: Early March through May. Last frost typically April 5–15. First sowing March 1–10; push early with cloches or tunnels. Final spring sowing May 10.
Fall sowing: Late August through early September. First frost typically November 5–15. Sow August 20 through September 5 for November harvest. Zone 7a has the longest fall window in PA.
Recommended varieties: All varieties. Golden Beet, Chioggia, and Touchstone Gold are especially recommended here — zone 7a’s mild fall gives them sufficient time to develop full flavor. Cylindra performs exceptionally well in zone 7a’s extended fall.
Watch for: Hot July–August (95°F+ possible). Let spring crops complete and clear beds by early July; wait until August 20–25 to sow fall crops when soil temperatures moderate.
Frequently Asked Questions — Growing Beets in PA
Common Beet Growing Questions for Pennsylvania Gardeners
Do beets need to be soaked before planting?
Soaking is not required but is worth doing. Beet seed clusters have a corky outer coating that can slow germination. Soaking in room-temperature water for 1–2 hours before sowing softens this coating and typically produces 2–4 days faster and more even germination. Sow immediately after soaking while seeds are still moist. Do not soak for more than 2 hours — prolonged soaking can deprive seeds of oxygen and reduce viability.
Why are my beet seedlings coming up in clumps?
This is completely normal. What looks like a beet “seed” is actually a corky seed cluster containing 2–6 seeds. Each cluster reliably produces multiple seedlings from the same sowing point. This is not a disease or problem — it is how beets grow. The solution is thinning: snip excess seedlings with scissors at soil level so remaining plants are 3–4 inches apart. Never pull seedlings when thinning beets, as this disturbs roots of neighboring plants.
When should I thin beet seedlings, and how far apart?
Thin in two stages. First thinning: when seedlings reach 2 inches tall, thin to 1–1½ inches apart. Second thinning: when plants reach 4–5 inches tall, thin to the final spacing of 3–4 inches. Use scissors to snip at soil level. Final spacing of 3 inches produces 2-inch roots; 4-inch spacing produces 3–4-inch roots. The thinnings from the second stage are large enough to use as salad greens.
Can I eat the beet greens from my garden plants?
Yes — beet greens are nutritious and excellent. Harvest only outer, mature leaves (6–8 inches long) and never remove more than one-third of a plant’s total leaf area at one time. Leave the central “crown” of new growth intact at all times. Stop harvesting greens 3 weeks before you plan to pull the root, so the plant can maximize sugar transfer into the root. Early Wonder and Bull’s Blood produce the best-quality greens; Detroit Dark Red greens are also good but more textured.
How do I know when beets are ready to harvest in Pennsylvania?
Brush soil away from the crown (the shoulder above soil level) and check root diameter. For most PA varieties, harvest when the crown reaches 1½ to 3 inches across — this correlates with 2–2½ inch roots below. Do not wait for roots larger than 3 inches; older beets become woody and fibrous. Days-to-maturity on the seed packet is a useful guide but can vary by 1–2 weeks depending on spring or fall temperatures. Fall crops harvested after light frost (28–32°F) are typically sweeter than spring crops.
Can beets stay in the ground after frost in Pennsylvania?
Yes, with limits. Beet roots tolerate light frosts (as low as 29°F briefly) and the sweetness improves after frost exposure. However, sustained freezes below 28°F cause cell damage that shortens storage life. In PA zone 6a–7a, fall-sown beets can typically stay in the ground through late October or November with straw mulch protection. In zones 5a–5b, harvest by mid-October before hard freezes arrive. Always harvest before the ground freezes solid, as frozen ground prevents lifting and causes quality loss.
🔗 Continue Reading — Pennsylvania Beet Growing
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